Soundproof ANY Door for $20!
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- Опубликовано: 11 апр 2025
- In this video, I will show you how to effectively soundproof a door for $20 or less. Sealing the gaps and cracks around a door is the first thing you should consider when soundproofing. These two methods can be used whether you're a homeowner or renting.
Links to the products I talk about in this video from Amazon. These are affiliate links which helps me produce my content at no extra cost to you. Thank you!
1. U-Shape Door Sweep 36" Universal - amzlink.to/az0...
2. Self-Stick Foam Weatherstrip 3/8"W, 3/16"T - amzlink.to/az0...
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4:36 The adhesive will actually stick very well to dust. The problem is the dust isn't stuck to the door frame! :)
I was thinking the same thing!
Hee hee hee, I literally just said that in my head :).
This comments made my day! I said and thought the same thing! 😊 It's the little things that brings joy to my life! He probably knows that about the adhesive. He just used the wrong words. He's already being generous by taking time out his life to make this video. I doubt he wants to use more time to edit his videos. Like when he was sliding the piece under the door and forgot about the door stopper looking thing and said, that's not going to work lol. I'm not sure what it was. I'm assuming it's a door stopper.
@@24efo1987 Haha yeah he definitely knows it. I just thought it was a little funny the way it was said.
@@veryboringname. I'm a very technical person and that sometimes can be a good thing and a bad thing for me lol. Because I know what they meant. Just not saying it correctly lol. But I don't expect everyone to think like me, but I know there are others that do lol. Sp for someone that doesn't really know for whatever reason it may be. You have to be technical, if not you'll technically be misinforming someone. Therefore, I love and appreciate that you took your time to inform the misinform. Funny thing is lol. I didn't want to comment on it because I overthink too much lol. I didn't want to be technical, smart-ass, know it all, captain obvious, etc. So I minded my business until I saw your comment lol. I wanted to join the you said it, I thought it club lol....
Do Not place weather stripping on the jam on the hinge side, as the door will just sweep it off. Place the foam strip on the frame so that the closed door will compress it and thus forms the seal.
lol, I noticed that too.
Clearly said; thank you. These comments provide a lot of clarification.
Thank you
Can also impede the closing of the door.
@ Hasn't so far..
Absolutely DO NOT do this if you have central air. The gaps in doors, especially the undercut at the bottom of the door is necessary for proper ventilation and room pressure balance. In many cases it is required by code. If you have central air, you probably have a return grille to your HVAC system in 1, maybe 2, centralized locations. Yet you’ll see supply diffusers spread out in multiple rooms. If you supply air to sealed rooms with no airflow path to your return you’ll not only kill the efficiency of your HVAC system, but have poor ventilation, temperature control and air quality issues in your house.
If you have a return vent in the room, you can do it. If not, then yes...no good.
It’s not terrible, so long as you don’t leave the door closed 24/7.
Achieve the same thing temporarily by rolling up a towel and laying it at the bottom of the door. The AC will be fine for a few minutes. If you have a screamer, put some nails in the top door trim and hang a blanket or comforter over the door before you nail your screamers trim.
You can get better temporary sound deadening by putting nails in the top door trim to hang a comforter or thick blanket on when the need arises. Finish nails put in part way from the top work well and don’t draw any attention.
It won't bother anything. It's the same thing as closing a vent to seal off a room. It in fact reduces the amount of square footage the AC has to push. If you already have a unit that is the max size for a house that's one thing, but doing this to one room isn't going to hurt the typical AC unit or the house or even inconvenience anyone in any way.
Without trying to discount the value of what is being offered in this video, please anyone doing this keep in mind that your home HVAC system may use that airspace around your door to balance the home
Yes, a cheap and terrible way to duct a return. It would be better to install a jump duct sized for the room. it would be even better to run a dedicated return back to the air filter at the AHU.
@@hjc4604 Return ducts to every room costs a considerable amount of extra money, and also cause efficiency loss pulling air through numerous additional small ducts Those ducts also typically result in additional efficiency losses due to them typically being run through attics/crawlspaces which further heats the return air in hot climates before being cooled again, and in cold climate the air being further cooled in cold attics before being heated again.
An inch gap under a door however costs nothing and eliminates ALL of those efficiency losses. While there is a small trade-off sound wise. a door gap is superior in every way for heating/cooling an average residential home.
This is so aggressively American lol in Europe (even the backwater Poland) the stuff he advises is baseline standard already factory installed in any even cheap door you install, and the door and frame are shaped in a way that there is no light bleed at all and there're gaskets already mounted out of factory to PREVENT sound and heat from circulation between the room and corridor. The circulation is handled, as needed, by the pipework with radiators in each room being connected to the central heating, usually a boiler in some variety, sometimes some houses can have various hybrid systems. Sometimes when I learn about living standards in the US it's shocking how you guys are seemingly still living in early 20th century with your uninsulated slider windows instead of proper triple layer tilt-turn windows, and these kinds of doors like in this video and and weird air-circulation (instead of water circulation) based heating solutions and the hot water in your shower being affected by other people using any other tap or even just flushing the toiler elsewhere in the house, and so on lol these things are unthinkable where (and it's shocking how some Americans online will argue it's normal and it's impossible to prevent it when not a single house works like that in Poland and it would be considered a broken badly designed system if it did), to us it's like a bad memory of rural conditions back in the worst stuff happening in deep communism, with all that being put behind once 90s hit and people had a free market and availability to quality of life improvements lol and we would consider what was happening then in rural areas to be already obsolete but the bad economy and system didn't allow for any better and we'd expect the US to be years ahead of us still, but in reality the shock how it's you who's so much behind in almost every way regarding living standards and household comforts is unbelievable lol
@@Sylkis89 it's not that we're "behind" in any way, it's a simple solution to avoid the gaps by adding return air vents in every room. It's the fact that everything is done to maximize profits and adding those vents cost the builder more, and they house is still valued the same. We just bought a home that was supposed to have return vents in every room since it's multi zoned and the previous owner refused to pay the little bit extra to do it and instead had them install the doors with the gaps because it was cheaper. Leaving it up to free market caused this problem here, if it was a regulated and mandatory the problem wouldn't exist here. Most people with the means to have a home custom built and pay the extra to have it done don't have this problem.
@@Sylkis89 Wow, this is such an aggressively Eurocentric perspective lol. It's fascinating how you’re so hyper-focused on specific regional design standards and assuming they’re universally superior when, in fact, the differences in construction, HVAC, and soundproofing methods between the US and Europe often depend on entirely different priorities, climates, market demands, and-yes-regulatory standards.
The entire premise of your claim demonstrates a fundamental misunderstanding of HVAC principles in most modern American homes. You mention that “gaskets prevent air circulation” between spaces as though that’s inherently a positive. What you seem completely oblivious to is that this is a *deliberate design consideration in the US*. In American residential homes, especially those utilizing forced-air HVAC systems-which are not the “weird, air-circulation-based heating systems” you mock but actually a highly efficient distribution model for mixed climates-the slight undercut around doors, or the absence of full gasket sealing, is actually a feature to facilitate *pressure equalization and airflow balance*. This design methodologically mitigates “room starvation,” a condition where sealed spaces would otherwise impede proper return airflow via supply-duct routing. By allowing air to transfer beneath doors, the system ensures pressure equilibrium within zones, maintaining thermal comfort and optimal energy performance.
The absence of this in your described Polish designs only indicates your homes are relying on predominantly hydronic or radiant heating methods, which, while effective for uniform heating, inherently lack the degree of zonal temperature modulation a well-maintained forced-air system offers. Try running proper multi-zone cooling with “radiators in every room connected to a boiler”-spoiler, you can’t. This is why American systems fully integrate inline ERVs (energy recovery ventilators) or HRVs (heat recovery ventilators) for conditioned air exchange and dehumidification capabilities that flat hydronic systems with sealed doors *aren’t doing*. Your homes are literally relying on passive air movement for ventilation-an oversight recognized as inefficient and outdated in high-performance American builds where ASHRAE standards actually measure a home’s total air change rates to balance comfort AND air quality. So no, “sealing” the door isn’t always better-it’s circumstantial to HVAC design.
And speaking of acoustic isolation, you absolutely overestimate the effectiveness of your prefabricated solutions. Sure, gaskets might reduce light bleed and sound transfer for low-to-mid decibel ranges, but let’s not pretend your “cheap doors” are doing anything resembling proper soundproofing for mid-to-low frequency attenuation. American high-end builds requiring true sound isolation don’t rely on the glorified weatherstripping you're lauding; they integrate mass-loaded vinyl membranes between wall assemblies (typically double-stud systems with staggered soundboards), decoupled resilient channels, and high-STC-rated solid-core doors. Your factory-installed gaskets simply aren't mitigating noise vibration transmission through critical elements like floor slabs or shared walls. And before you boast about this being “baseline” in Europe: it’s not; it’s entirely dependent on the home's *performance specification.*
It’s also laughably disingenuous for you to criticize American window standards by oversimplifying them as "uninsulated sliders." Regional factors like seismic activity zones, hurricane-prone coasts, and massive climate diversity mean American window systems are designed to different needs. Triple-pane tilt-turn configurations might make sense in Poland’s colder, static climate zones but aren’t cost-effective-or structurally optimum-for the US’s sheer range of environments. For instance, you'll find “low-e” coated argon-filled double-glazing with thermal spacers in American homes because they strike an excellent balance between U-value reduction (thermal performance) and affordability depending on the region. And, since you want to compare standards, look up NFRC ratings and FEMA windborne debris impact requirements (Miami-Dade Code anyone?), because those “standards” often render your vaunted Euro solutions non-compliant here.
Finally, your rambling about water temperature variability in showers shows just how cherry-picked your criticisms are. American plumbing codes (e.g., the Uniform Plumbing Code or International Plumbing Code) very clearly dictate anti-scald tempering valves in new builds, and any home experiencing cross-pressure drops is either antiquated or suffering deferred maintenance. Trust me, it’s no more “normal” here than a poorly functioning hydronic radiator failing to heat its zone evenly is “normal” in Poland.
Sure, every region has its legacy quirks due to economics, climate, and cultural priorities. But maybe next time, drop the sneering tone when you’re ignorant of why these systems work differently and do a bit of research outside your bubble-preferably something rooted in engineering rather than just “lol Americans.”
Another inexpensive way to cut down on sound is, carpeting in the hallway or a runner. It helps cut the noise bouncing off the walls. 👍
Whats a runner? I'll try carpet thats good idea
I think that he was trying to prevent any “odd” noises from escaping the bedroom, not just reduce the noise outside the bedroom from bothering the occupants in the bedroom.
@@sam55246A runner is a long length of flooring material that is not quite as wide as the hallway. It can be carpet (also called a rug) or it can be another flexible material. Its primary purpose is to protect the floor. Runners can be be used on carpet to protect the area used most for walkways, so it may be a transparent material.
@@sam55246thin long rug for the middle of the hallway
@@sam55246 A long, narrow rug designed to fit in a hallway. They also make them for stairways.
I filled the hollow core doors in my house with spray insulating foam. I do have the benefit of having things like a thermal camera and an endoscope. If the door has a honeycomb structure this won't be ideal but not all do, many have long card board channels which can be drilled thru with a long drill bit. If you're going to attempt this I would suggest removing the door and setting up some metal bracing with clamps on the door to avoid bulging, in my fist attempt I did actually have a door blow up like a balloon and split open, need to make sure excess foam has places to escape
Minimally expanding foam😮
That would be an interesting video. 😊
Toxic foam
Yes I was just saying this. I didn’t know other people have thought of it.
If you’re going to the trouble of taking off the door you could also buy a solid core door to swap in
I have a TV and stereo in a basement rec-room and this absolutely reduced sound leakage into the first floor of our home. A very easy, quick and inexpensive fix.
Awesome to hear it worked so well for you!
@@soundproofguide TBH I was shocked how well it works, really was not expecting much for so little effort. Thanks for this info.
It is so eye opening to listen to smart solution rather than fancy products
Just double-check the comments about how having central A/C in the house is 100% not a good thing with sealing your interior doors.
@@EdwoodCA I don’t have AC but I have heaters in every room. Can I do this?
The trouble is that on most bedroom doors, that gap between the bottom of the door and the floor is there for a reason. It's the only space the HVAC system can use to force air back to the air . Remember, most bedrooms do not have an independent air return in them. What will happen is positive air pressure will build up inside the room and not be able to escape. Then when you try to gently push the door open from the outside, there will be considerable resistance and the higher pressure inside the room will tend to want to push the door closed.
If you have to eliminate that Gap by putting a sweep under the door, you would almost have to put a jumper duct in the bedroom ceiling in the attic to the ceiling on the other side of the door.
Absolutely correct on return air if you have A/C and/or forced air heating.
Would it make much of a difference if it was like a bathroom door and only closed for like 30mins or so at a time?
@@lukefitt56should be ok but sometimes bathroom door needs gap at bottom for make-up air for the exhaust fan.
What if the bedrooms all have return vents would it be ok?
@@Southwestdetroit313absolutely. As long as the air from the HVAC is returned without creating any positive and/or negative pressure situations. Then you are good to go.
You have the ideal setup, as long as everything is equally balanced, sized, and properly installed.
First thing that came into my mind after seeing the first minutes with the light shining through the gaps: Well, now I know why our german doors are made absolutely different.
It isn't necessarily how the doors are made, it is more along the lines of how it was installed.
Ah yes, and those thick German brick walls also help. American walls are just paper and hollow space essentially...
@@jmackinjersey1 Unlike in the US, many German doors have a ‘rebated’ edge (the ‘falz’), which means one side of the door is stepped, fitting into a corresponding groove in the frame. This design provides better insulation and soundproofing. American doors often have a straight edge, fitting flush into the frame, which might not seal as tightly but allows for more flexibility in size and installation.
Thank you! As a fellow German I was looking for sound tips, but I agree our homes seem to be build so very differently.
Yeah, Germans have quite the reputation for making rooms air tight...
Can’t even believe you did this demonstration without safety boots. Appreciate the vid bud. We have a bathroom close to the living room and it is getting this 20$ fix.
I would think that the bottom door sweep would end up scratching the finish on the hardwood floor. That would be problematic. Someone else mentioned a solid core door that would be a good choice but more than $20. In cold climates you might find a "door snake" (much like a towel that someone else mentioned) which is filled with heavy beads to keep out cold drafts. You might find one at a dollar store or online.
Got one at Aldi's for about $4.
I’m doing this in my new home, I’m also doing a solid door, I am also putting mini splits in the house so it’ll have individual units throughout the that house. We are also doing double layer 3/4” plywood on my master bedroom, and insulation in the walls around the master bedroom. We are also et windows so that I can put in blackout blinds to block out 100% of light. This way you can sleep in in darkness and no sound.
Have you seen the multi room mini split system. Can add them to 8 rooms off one compressor unit.
Why mini splits. Are you in America?
Except the mini split noise
This cut the sound way down,quickly, cheaply, and easily. Thank you!!!
I solved my noise problems by buying a new house. Well, tbh, that was just a bonus. Since it's just me, the only noises being made that aren't mine are things like the refrigerator and the tankless water heater. Actually, though, one thing I hadn't planned on doing was buying gutters for the house (it's less than 10 years old and the nice metal roof was fine). But after the rain stopped, water would slowly, and I mean slowly, drip, drip, drip, (you get the idea) from the high roof to the lower roof of my bedroom. And trying to fall asleep as that intermittent dripping was going on was tough. Yeah, a certain kind of torture. So I spent $2200 to have gutters, snow bars, gutter covers, and down spouts installed on that side of the house. Problem solved.
If you have a nice clean new metal roof and gutters, all you need is a tank and you have independent water. Filtering it is optional depending where you live, but it's not going to have the heavy metals and other toxins that are present in many municipal water supplies.
I also recommend using a thick area rug , it absorbs some noise, and an upholstered chair or chairs do also help,great demonstration on door sweep ,had no idea it was so easy to install, thanks !
Just to add to the easy sound reduction tips.
Sound is reduced alot when it isnt bouncing off of flat surfaces or when it is being absorbed by thick fabrics or insulation.(thick/sound blankets, matress, pillows)
Empty rooms reflect more sound than furnashed ones..
Carpeting or rugs is number 1 for easy sound insulation. The thicker the better.
Curtains over windows preventing another flat surface
Hanging a sound blanket or just a thick blanket hanging from the door (or walls/ceiling)
Having alot of pillows on top of beds or couches reduces sound reflections.
Having no closet door in your room or opening closet doors prevents flat surface reflections with the clothing
In a well-sealed room without central air, make sure you periodically ventilate if you're going to do this, and leave a window cracked if you're going to sleep there. The undercut under the door normally functions to provide enough air change to keep it from getting really stale. For interior doors, I tend to just put a rolled up towel at the bottom of the door temporarily to block noise. The weather stripping is a great idea regardless.
pro tip: use white weather strip to match/blend into door jamb..
Good tips! The only upgrade I can think of - is to install sound-proofing panels on the inside of the door - they look like they have "radiator"-like ribs, so you know what I'm talking about :) That should reduce the noise significantly.
Absolutely solid video on the first course of action to soundproof a door. Thank you sir.
Just a friendly note, you said it right the first time- If you reduce the decibels by 3db, you cut the volume in half. Raise it by three, you double it. Every 3 decibels, you either halve it or double it.
A 3dB difference represents a doubling/halving of sound pressure or power - which is not the same as volume. You need a 10dB reduction to halve the perceived loudness or 10dB increase to double it.
Better install an HVAC return in that room or a balance duct.
I'm totally using this when I go American Phyco. Thank you!
Honestly, though, I don't want it to be too soundproof so I can hear when or if someone breaks into my home.
This is the perfect set up for you then!! 😎
You should use this spelling, too:
*Psycho
That's what alarm systems are for
Patrick Bateman approves.
"Sometimes there can be some noises ..." Priceless. Ya think. Lol.
Loving the videos. Soundproofing and insulation has kind if become a special interest over the years.
Would love to see you be more precise when doing measurements, showing that the computer (audio source) is on the same spot, on the same volume each time, and the decibel meter on a tri-pod to get consistent reliable measurements. I believe it would be a good way to really convey the benefits of soundproofing by removing any doubt as to the validity of the DIY things suggested.
My hollow core bedroom door, I drilled a hole on the top and bottom rails, then filled the cavities with spray foam. To keep from any bulging happening I just clamped two pieces of 2x for on each side of the door before I sprayed in the foam and then what a difference.
Thanks for the nice video! But remember, the gap under the door is also for airflow. If you make doors too sealed, you block the airflow from windows to the kitchen or bathroom, where the extractor fan helps circulate fresh air and reduce CO2 levels. Also, for sound dB difference tests, it's better to use white or brown noise-it gives more accurate results and is copyright-free.
That shot of the bed! 😂😂😂
The soundproofing of the door will also provide additional insulation for heating/cooling (save money). Thought I'd add that to your helpful vid. Overall your recommendation is a very good idea.
0:45 Got it. I can get weird as long as I keep the lights off!
In general doing things that affect airflow will require you to have an understanding of how your house was built and the thermal design . Most modern and updated homes require the gaps for air movement you can easily stress systems / use more electric burn out items or even create humidity that over time causes mould .
For you ok the insolation foam strips is probably ok but for the bottom id make heavy 4-6 inch diameter waited sausage draft excluder and only use it limitedly for noise .
Excellent, thanks for sharing. Just moved into a new apartment and can hear everything in the hall. This will help!
Behind the walls is the start. Then upgrade your door slab. Make sure it fits the jamb properly too. Another cheap option for where the weather stripping went is a thick bead of clear paintable caulk. Then wrap the door in plastic wrap. While Caulk is wet close door until it just latches, maybe even a mm short, and let caulk set. Then open door and remove plastic wrap. Perfect seal
To all the nerds in the comments saying this will mess up your AC unit, it's the same thing as closing a vent to seal off a room. It in fact reduces the amount of square footage the AC has to push. If you already have a unit that is the max size for a house that's one thing, but doing this to one room isn't going to hurt the typical AC unit or the house or even inconvenience anyone in any way.
This
Perhaps, but I'm assuming to people in the room want properly circulated and dehumidified air. And actually, closing a vent totally is not a great idea.
@@GUITARTIME2024that's assuming the system works properly in the first place
Close off too many vents, and you reduce the air flow across the evaporator coil, which can cause it to freeze up
FYI that foam is available in white. Also, you should have shown the dB level with no music playing. People forget that a quiet room still registers dBs. Also, Apple Watch and other devices can measure dBs. Sometimes a third party app is needed. I’ve tested the Apple Watch with a dB reader like the one you use and it’s very accurate.
My dungeon will be sound proof now!
NEW title: Slightly reduce sound transfer of a door.
😂😂
10 decibels which he almost reached is twice as quiet.
The quietest dishwasher from Bosch is 38 decibels so that is very very quiet.
36 decibels is considered background noise.
A hollow door is actually a drum... can increase sound. This is a very good start on a budget.
Most interior doors are hollow core. If you want more of a sound barrier get a solid door. Check your frame for even gap all around frame/door, and check for warping. You don't want an air tight seal, you need air to pass throughout the home, whether you have central air system or window units, air needs to be able to pass to regulate temperature. If you want more of a "soundproof" affect, insult the walls. *homebuilder 30+yrs* 😉👍
I know it’s a typo, but I insult my walls all the time!
@@jaredlowe3927 🤣🤣🤣 👍
@@jaredlowe3927😂🎉
Ehh idc about the airflow
@@Jesus-ze8vh of course you don't
Just take off the door and force everyone to listen (and watch). All your flatmates will move out and then you can be as loud as you want.
Facts
that's fine when your flatmates are adults. Not so great when you have children in the house.
@@tealkerberus748 Actually, this is not okay to do (regardless as to what age the flatmates are). That's why what I wrote is a joke.
Make sure windows are closed too. Neighbors may look at you strangely. Don't ask how I know.
If they're enterprising they won't move out and you'll be unknowingly famous online.
just as a note: a very inexpensive, and PORTABLE option is a spring tension bar, and a THICK curtain of cloth. preferably something like wool or velvet
Solid wood doors instead of hollow-core - obvious, but overlooked by many.
There's yet another factor that plays out here that you missed. The hardwood floor!! I realize that you're just focusing on the door 🚪 but the wooden floor will create reverberations in sound, which may be controlled by an area rug (if it's in your budget) if you got carpet already, then it's not a problem!! Some apartments have carpeting and some don't. My last apartment had it, probably because of whiny tenants. Cheers 🍻
Agree! The hallway needs a carpet runner or some upholstered walls for less reverberation otherwise that hallway becomes a drum. We built or soundproof rooms by alternating 2x6 studs like a zig zag on 2x8 top & bottom plates. That way we could keep the vibration from traveling from one side of the wall to the other side. We have a wall hung toilet with a loud flushing mechanism in the wall, so we had to jog the studs, insulate well, and added a built in bookshelf to keep the flush noise from being heard in the living room.
Dude, just grab a cheap second-hand blanket from a Salvation Army store (they're about 15 bucks) and hang it over your door like they did in medieval castle bedrooms. Boom! Instant silence-it’s almost eerie how quiet it gets. I tried it, and now I can’t sleep without it!
At the 5.34 mark, when you were placing the weatherstrip to the hinge side of the door frame, for that side, you should place the strip in the corner of the inside of the frame (where the frame hinges are) and not the forward facing side of the frame. This way when the door closes, the right side edge of the door will close onto the strip, giving a more compact fitting. It's a bit scientific, but you'll understand once you do it.
The top of the frame and the left side (door knob side) are getting direct compact from the door closing. The right side is not, as when you close the door, that side is sweeping to the right to try and get a compact fitting, it needs to be direct. By placing that right side strip to the hinge side of the frame, it will be a direct compact fitting. I hope i explained it in a way you can understand.
I’d appreciate a whole series on keeping sound from getting out of the bedroom.
You need to consider whether you're depending on the "leaky door" for return air for your HVAC. If you have a return air vent in the bedroom, its not a problem, but most houses only have a return somewhere in the main living area. One solution is to install a baffled air return above the door, but they cost a lot more than $20.
Drill small holes on the top of a hollow door & empty cans of spray foam in there.
Solid core doors help alot. You don't want bedroom door sealed that tight especially if you are in a cold part of the country and can not open the windows for fresh air. And anyone with central heating and A/C the air needs to return to intake that is usually in the hall. Just put a rolled up towel along the bottom of the door if you are one of rare guys that does NOT have a sexless marriage. Then 15 minutes later take the towel away so air can move again.
I have to agree! The towel does work well for this exercise.
15 minutes??? 😮😢
@@Cosmic.Nebula ok 10 minutes. Not including the ti.e begging for it.
actually if you open the window for under 3 minutes you actually dont loose any heating capacity and you get fresh air.. 10 mins after you close the window you'll have the same temp as you had before opening the window😊 (under 3 mins you change air but the walls dont get cold etc. so when you close it the fresh air gets heated up very quickly)
@@ervinvinn4529 great you going to wakeup every couple of hours and open the window for three minutes? Sounds perfect. Enjoy!
Put coat hooks on the inside of the door. Hang your robes and such on said hooks. Free sound insulation.
Door knobs and handles are mostly empty space that allow sound transmission. So I made a cardboard template to cut gasket material and installed that on both sides between the door knob and the door. Maybe tire inner tubes would also work as the gasket material?
This was helpful.. thanks for the videos that you are uploading.. you are doing great!
You can put foam(egg crate foam works best) in hollow core doors to significantly reduce sound.
Another simple way to sound ”proof” a door is to simply hang a couple of bathrobes (towels, etc) on the inside of the door. Those over the top type holders work great.
Will give this a try. Now what can be done about insulting the noise from a banging headboard? Noise vibrates right through the wall. I’ve found a gag can sometimes be useful depending on the circumstances, or just a simple neck tie on the outside door handle can give a subtle stay away message.
@@kriskaitson4370 Maybe make the bed more stable so it will not hit the wall? Somehow lock those bed legs in place or do your "maneuvers" across the bed instead of in line with the headboard/footboard?
Fire hazard
Great vid, just bought all those products on Black Friday deals!
Nice trim work in your home, corners on those door frames look returned. Classy! Oh, and good guide.
This is a great guide on the basic things you should try before trying to replace your door. If you do replace your door with a more dense door, you may need to change hinges and other stuff so that it can withstand the door if you use heavier materials like wood.
I had no experience at the time and a lazy sibling who helped me out with replacing the door but in the end you will find the door is sagging very quick and and creaking if you don't properly adjust the area where the heavier door will be installed.
Decibels are logarithmic, actually every three decibels is a doubling or halving of the noise level
I've installed toughened glass single pane 12mm on my window completely sealed.
Buddy, you have a whole glorious channel on soundproofing. You can't just take some readings on a phonometer. You need to standardize things and acquire mean values of attenuation for diffrent frequency components.
Is that you in the new Apple Hearing Aid Air Pod commercial? If not, it's your doppelganger!!!
Thank you good idea but the gap allows air to circulate between rooms, which is particularly important in homes with central heating or air conditioning systems. It helps balance air pressure and maintain consistent airflow. In some cases, gaps are part of a fire safety design to ensure smoke can travel to smoke detectors more quickly.
I did essentially the same wo
work on the door to the main floor laundry room years ago. Best use of $20 👍
That is awesome! 👏
@@soundproofguide many years ago, working at a high end hifi shop, I had a customer who put an exterior style glass door to close off his main floor listening room. All the weather stripping, rubber mounted half inch glass wall and it was dramatically reduced sound elsewhere. Since sound is air moving, stop the air and light and you're halfway there.
Vent in that room?
for the record a lot of doors have built in ventilation, you don't want to block that because that's where air has to escape in order for new air to enter.
I need to try this because I live with people that blast the tv
They make that weatherstrip in white.
what are you a waysissttt?
Was thinking the same thing!
they will get full of dust :)
You could get the white foam kind so it will match the door!
Very good explanation
I have radient heat no ac vents. Door is hollow. I dont need the edges covered as much as the door itself. I have seen foam floor puzzle peices drilled to doors in group housing to bring sound levels down. Hoped to see that here.
I’ll have to try that! Thanks for the idea!
You look like you could be a brother or cousin of Alexander Ludwig. We just got a new Frigidaire a couple days ago. It's louder than it should be im going to try this, thank you!
*In a pinch, use a pool noodle cut down one side lentgh-wise!*
i always thought we need to leave some gaps for HVAC recirculation
Well presented, thanks for the tips! Will have to look into it. I would've also clicked on the video if it said, "Sound reduce* doors for under $20".
I agree! Sound reduction is a more accurate description. 😊
Follow up video “Soundproofing ANY Window for $20!” - ruclips.net/video/ows6qvWK0BY/видео.htmlsi=Q4ekLX7f-gq7voHV
Having a solid wood door is a good start but not everyone has that option but that alone probably isn't enough. I think a potential problem is during summer months with higher humidity (whilst no heating) doors become much harder to close and open. Only AC or dehumidifier can help really.
Nice videos, thanks.
Shouldn’t you have put the sound inside the room and measured the loudness from outside the room?
None of these techniques work. You need to insulate the surrounding walls as well and have carpeting inside the bedroom. You also need to provide a real screamer inside the bedroom to test the noise from the outside, not just some random music played at a comfortable level in the hallway which defeats the purpose of the test.
Chances are nothing will work because I had a screamer living next door and I heard both her and her husband screaming all throughout my condo. It was muffled a bit but you could still hear them.😁
mate didn't the decibels increase
I don’t know about having this setup full time… birthdays and anniversaries however…
Curtains and rugs also help to reduce noise and contribute to a more cozy room.
Although it’s a matter of style and personal taste, you can install soundproofing material, like in music studios, on the walls. I’m also wondering if you can still holes in the edges of the door, and pump in insulation, that may cut down in sound.
That’s why it’s actually called sound dampening, not proofing… impossible to sound proof for $20. Sound proofing takes multiple layers of drywall to create more weight along with extra flooring and blocking off outlets among many more things that add up and get really expensive.
3:43 That little gap at the corner of the door-sweep will let sound through. I made the same mistake. If you have hard floors (i.e. no carpeting) it gets amplified like crazy! Our apartment got renovated from carpet to hard tile floor and it sucks, because now I can hear everything in the entire apartment. Even with no light getting through, I still had too much sound leaking through the door. I ended up having to doing an extra layer of weatherstripping, which still wasn't sufficient. I finally used some gorilla tape on the inside of the door at every crack and that finally cut out almost all sound. I'm wondering if maybe placing some kind of noise mat inside and outside would help replicate the effect of carpet?
Wouldn't it be easier to send the kids to Grandma's or a sleepover w/friends?!
I am in love 😍 what a man ❤
I used a piece of pipe insulation to put on for a door sweep they are about 3$
pool noodle will work too
Spray foam thisidebofbthe hollow door and your gravy just make sure you get the spray foam that spreads vertically
The bottom of your door is used as a path for air to return to the AC unit. If air cannot make it's way back to the AC, no new air will enter and your room will be hot/cold. May cause humidity problems also if air cannot migrate around as it should.
We have 4 bedrooms in our 24 yo house. All 4 have Return air ducts in them...not clear why every home isn't built that way.
Cost. Also you then have return air ducts which fill with dust. A central return with a filter on the front reduces power loss.
For homes with a central return you can install jump ducts from room to hallway. Have them make a turn to keep it from being a sound tunnel.
Make sure to change each filter as needed.
It's great for sound and all, but what about airflow? In most cases rooms with air intakes (such as bedrooms) are usefull for the hole section of the house. If you isolate fully a section, you are creating airflow issues. Most houses will mold up if there is an airflow issue.
Now, need to figure out how to sound proof the floor and walls.
I just use ear plugs and a mask durning the day. I sleep days and work all night. If I am tired enough - nothing wakes me! 😮
Granite that's a wonderful idea but does that stripping come in white because my OCD would not allow a black line all the way around my door
My OCD compels me to correct the word 'granite' with 'granted.'
I've never heard you mention the door handle in any of your videos. There's a good-sized hole in the door that's covered by the handle; I imagine sound is getting through there. There's at least one solution to this, but what difference would it make to fill/remove that hole? I suggest you test this if you haven't yet.
Really good advice from a Europan: Dont build your house out of paper.
But nice Video.
That's now how decibels work. It's a logarithmic scale you can't just say "every 10db is half."
What type of door sweep would be most effective if the door is over carpet?
Help/Question: I just got my door sweep in from your link. I measured and trimmed it to fit. However, on the outside of the room there is a raised tile at the entrance of the door to my room and it’s not allowing me to shut the door completely. How should I trim it on that side so that the door can shut??? Will it basically only be the one side, the inside of the room, that needs to be covered and trim MOST of the outer side???
If the raised tile is preventing the door from closing, you'll need to trim the door sweep on the side that makes contact with the tile. You can trim just enough of the sweep on that side to allow the door to close properly while keeping the sweep intact on the inside to maintain the seal. Essentially, you'll have a tapered sweep-higher on the inside and lower on the outside. This way, you still get soundproofing benefits inside the room while ensuring the door closes fully.
@@soundproofguide Ty. I did it and while it's not going to stay on the door at least when I close it I can slide it under it to seal it from my side of the room. Thank you for all your advice!
Another method involves replacing the hollow core door with a solid wood door. Any would be noise outside will know, when you slam the door that you mean business. Potential noise pollution will be terrified to even approach the door.
Agreed!
The major problem I see is with HVAC systems you’ll lose circulation and positive pressure in that room resulting in a hot room in the summer or a cold room in the winter when the door is shut
Awesome! Thanks😀
You got about 5 dB of sound reduction. That is a barely perceptible difference. If you want serious sound reduction, like 30 dB, then you'll have to spend the big bux and put in an acoustic gasket, a solid-core door, and isolated double walls filled with acoustic foam.